Introduction
There’s a saying you get told a lot as a mother: “The days are long, but the years are short.” While this is generally true, especially with small kids, the past 12 months have felt particularly long for me. After a routine mammogram last May, I was diagnosed with breast cancer and spent the following months undergoing treatments and multiple surgeries. In March, the majority of it was behind me. With a clean bill of health and the brain fog of chemo slowly dissipating, I decided a small celebration was in order.
Discovering Tokeland Hotel
As a longtime fan of former Seattle chef Heather Earnhardt’s fried chicken and anything quirky, I cajoled my best friend into a getaway to Tokeland for a weekend where we could just hang out, laugh, and eat some really good food at Washington’s oldest hotel. Located on the southwestern edge of the state, we fell in love with Tokeland immediately upon arrival — and we weren’t the only ones. Founded in 1899 as the Kindred Hotel, the secluded Tokeland Hotel offers a cozy, beachy escape from city life and boasts some delicious food.
History of Tokeland Hotel
The first time Heather Earnhardt and her partner Zac Young stayed at the Tokeland Hotel, Earnhardt knew she was going to one day buy it. Neither of them was from the area — just in town because Young’s father lived nearby and was watching their children — so the couple decided to “go stay at that old hotel.” When Young’s dad found out the hotel was for sale in 2018, Earnhardt and Young jumped at the chance to buy it. They had a vision for the hotel and, now, six years later, have breathed new life into a place that opened just a decade after Washington was declared a state.
Dining at Tokeland Hotel
Our dinnertime was a mix of hotel guests and locals rubbing elbows over hearty platters of fried chicken ($38), chicken-fried pork chops with creamy mashed potatoes ($36), and towering wedge salads topped with crisp candied bacon ($20). Breakfast was just as lovely as dinner. There’s coffee set up for guests around 7 a.m., with breakfast beginning at 8 a.m. Of course, there are big, fluffy biscuits as good as they were when served at the Wandering Goose in Seattle, bowls of Greek yogurt topped with granola and fruit ($18), eggs Benedict ($24-$26), French toast ($22), and a Japanese chicken omelet with housemade kimchi ($25).
Activities and Attractions
After breakfast, we set out on a walk through the slough and ended up walking the mile-long road down to Nelson Crab and the old Tokeland pier. We drove 25 minutes north to Westport, but after spending a few hours window shopping and jostling through the crowds that were taking advantage of the unseasonably warm March weather, we decided to head back south, searching for solitude. Grayland Beach State Park, just a short drive away, offers a perfect spot for a relaxing day by the ocean. The hotel itself encourages guests to disconnect from their devices and enjoy the natural surroundings, whether it’s through board games, stargazing, or simply enjoying the peaceful atmosphere.
Personal Experience
One of the highlights of our stay was booking an appointment for the giant, wood-fired hot tub ($50/hour), which sits just a stone’s throw from the hotel. We settled into the massive tub at dusk, marveling at the swooping bats and the way the setting sun lit the grassy slough (once the golf course), turning everything a rich golden hue. After our soak, we relaxed in the Adirondack chairs lining the front walk, giggling at Gus, a footstool-shaped yellow Labrador, as he lumbered through the dining room looking for scraps, and sighing over how good the food was and how we had missed Wandering Goose in Seattle.
Planning Your Visit
If you’re looking for a unique and cozy getaway, Tokeland Hotel is the perfect destination. With nightly rates starting around $160 and a two-night minimum stay required, it’s an affordable retreat. The hotel is located at 2964 Kindred Ave., Tokeland, and can be reached at 360-267-7006. For more information, visit tokelandhotel.com. Whether you’re looking to enjoy delicious food, explore the local area, or simply relax in a beautiful historic setting, Tokeland Hotel offers a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
